Niijima

There are several islands in the Tokyo area, each of which can be visited in two or three days. They all boast a wealth of flora and fauna, making them pleasant destinations for escaping the city or enjoying a variety of activities such as diving, snorkeling, hiking, surfing or discovering a cultural or gastronomic heritage. For my first trip, I decided to go to Niijima for a few days.

Several means of transport are available, by boat, helicopter or plane. Some islands have airfields, but flights are more or less frequent from Tokyo. Fast ferries connect them to the capital in two or three hours, but I’ll take the longest and most charming crossing for my taste, the night ferry. I booked my trip on the Tokai Kisen website. I like to travel by sea, and different sleeping solutions are available. The simplest and cheapest is a shared room on a tatami mat. Upper-class cabins are the most expensive. I’ll be opting for the very rudimentary shared berths. The boat’s pitching makes itself felt a little and the vibrations of the engines resonate on the floor, but I’ve brought earplugs and an eye mask. I’m not afraid of seasickness, and I find charm where others would find racket. Boating is like a perpetual motion that I find pleasant. All this machinery reminds me of a snoring beast.

The ferry leaves Tokyo Takeshiba port at 10pm, arriving in Niijima at 8:30am the next day. On board, a restaurant and showers are available, as well as dispensers for everyday items such as toothbrushes, towels, etc. The deck is accessible on the sixth floor.

We arrive in the rain and mist. The islands seem to emerge from between the clouds, giving them a mysterious aura.

The first day is like a Breton storm. A change of scenery guaranteed. Despite the wind and rain, I walk to a glassblowers’ workshop and visit their store. You can buy their creations on the spot. The volcanic rock used by the craftsmen gives a beautiful green color to the objects on display.

The following day, the weather has become milder and I can enjoy the Pacific Ocean and its magnificent shades of blue. I let myself go for a swim on the calm beaches.

Conditions are not ideal for surfing, but some locals are present.

The beaches are empty as far as the eye can see. Out of season, the island is a wonderful place to recharge your batteries. However, it’s a good idea to check the opening hours of the few restaurants in the village, as some of them require reservations or are already full.

A Free camp site is available on the island, and statues line the roads, taking on a ghostly air under the light of street lights.

Another highlight is the outdoor baths, which are accessible free of charge. They offer sea views. The water, which is pumped from the sea, is heated, and its temperature varies according to the baths chosen. As with all onsen or sento, a shower beforehand is essential. Wearing a bathing suit, however, is, here, compulsory. This is unusual in Japan, where tradition demands that you enter the water naked. In my opinion, the adjustment of the rules is perhaps due to tourism. The setting is rather unusual, transporting visitors back to Greek antiquity for a bath time.

The island covers an area of 18 km2. So, for a good walker, it’s possible to get to many of the hikes on foot. There are, however, some steep inclines. But the views are magnificent.

The island is a paradise for birds. The forests are very dense and there are few predators, making it a place of preservation.

I was able to photograph and record a few specimens during my hikes.

A bluebird. A bird that likes to live in rocky and stony environments on mountains and coasts.

A very common white-eye. I’ve added a photo of my little Tokyo neighbors, who come to feast on the nectar of camellia flowers. They’re also there when the Japanese cherry trees are in full bloom !

A meadow bunting. They live in groups, and these took advantage of the grassy area of the campsite deserted by humans at the time.

A varied titmouse preparing its nest. As I learnt more about the species, this bird was once tamed in Japan to take part in small divination shows in temples and religious shrines. It was also popular as a pet bird. Pairs are formed for life, with the male offering hazelnuts to the coveted female as a nuptial offering.

I was also able to listen to the song of another bird, very popular in Japan, particularly in the literary field. With the arrival of spring, I was pleasantly surprised to hear one daily in the early hours of the morning in Tokyo. It probably wanted to nest in the trees next my home.
It’s the Japanese nightingale. It isn’t actually part of the same specy, but it is also known by its Japanese name, uguisu.