In the shadow of Miyakejima’s giant

Here I am, back for three days of discoveries on another of Tokyo’s islands. Miyakejima covers an area of 55 km2 and is home to an active volcano. It therefore has certain particularities that Niijima, the first island I visited, didn’t have.

My aim is to join an association offering half-day swims with dolphins. Other aquatic activities, such as diving, are also possible.

I take the 10.30pm ferry from Takeshiba harbor on Friday evening, arriving at 5am the next morning. With little time to rest, I opt for an upper 2nd class cabin, which will give me a little more comfort. The dormitories feature curtained bunks for greater privacy. The atmosphere is also quieter.

On arrival, it’s long past daylight and the innkeeper with whom I’ll be staying picks me up at the port. The Ryokan, a Japanese inn, is traditional as I like it. It’s hidden away from the road, at the end of a cul-de-sac, surrounded by greenery.

After spending the morning resting after a hearty breakfast, I join the association for the planned outing. Here I am again on a boat, heading for the nearby island to meet the bottlenose dolphins who come to socialize in shallow water. The dolphins are a joy to be around! They are very playful. Females with calves are more discreet, swimming calmly close to the bottom. More solitary adults, on the other hand, invite us into their games, whirling around or appearing by surprise at our side. It’s a real pleasure for everyone, and we share smiles and a few words each time we get back on the boat. We return to port with stars in our eyes.

The next day, I’ll follow the road around the island to discover an ancient lava flow that presents an atypical backdrop. Buses run about five times a day to the various points on the island, but I’ll walk to the southern part.

On the way, I pass a quiet Shinto shrine tucked away from the road.

My destination is a freshwater lake surrounded by forest. It was created by a volcanic eruption 2500 years ago. The atmosphere is very peaceful. Once again, the birds are present and I never tire of listening to them. Venerable trees lurk along the path. They bear witness to the island’s evolution over several hundred years.

I’m alone on the path around the lake. I soak up the sun near a pontoon and a few herons and egrets do the same.

Back towards the coast, the lava has transformed the landscape into alternating black deserts and lush forests, giving the island’s shores a surreal appearance.

The powerful waves rushing through the corridors of cooled magma explode loudly on the rock.

Beyond, the island of Mikurajima, where we went the day before to meet the dolphins.

I find beached creatures with bleached bones. Could they be the remains of some seabirds’ meals? Further on, life returns to the rock with exotic species such as oriental lilies.

The presence of kami, divinities or spirits that inhabit all things, is never far away. This torii stands facing the ocean, as if turned towards the horizon. Being on good terms with the invisible is all the more important on this island, which experienced a major eruption in 2000, leading to the evacuation of its inhabitants until 2005. The volcano is now off-limits.

The latest eruption was publicized in a film, Rock: Wanko no shima. This cinematic work is based on a true story that unfolded in the aftermath of the eruption.

An animated series, Two car, was also inspired by Miyakejima. I found it original to discover some of the series’ settings during my strolls around the island. The inn where I was staying also features in the story and was involved in the filming of the movie.