Hiking at Mount Ono

On this Sunday in January, I’m planning a four-hour hike just a stone’s throw from Mount Fuji. The Odakyu line, which I take from Yoyogi-Uehara, takes me to Shin-Matsuda, where I change lines. The late-morning blue sky gives me a glimpse of the famous volcano I’ll be approaching during the hike. Two stations later, I arrive at Yamakita, where the trailhead is located. The journey from Tokyo takes around 1h45. It’s cold but dry, and I warm up quickly as I walk.

The main road soon gives way to a small road winding through the mountains. I pass what appear to be heady-smelling narcissi and a few curious characters.

The path becomes a footpath and the slope starts to get really steep. The summit has to be earned! I have to be careful, as there are places where a false step would be unfortunate. Fortunately, the ground is not slippery and I find very little snow.

Eventually I reach the summit where I meet a few cows grazing on the plateau. There’s plenty of space for a bit of livestock farming and a farm is nearby.

The weather has become overcast and the Mount Fuji will have hidden in its cloak of clouds. But the view is still very beautiful. A few hikers have stopped for a picnic despite the bitterly cold wind, and it won’t be long before I start my descent. A little lower down, I can see the mist moving away, giving me a glimpse of the great volcano. I wait, sheltered from the wind, but my wait is fruitless. All I see of Fuji is the white foot. But the wait itself is contemplation, and I take a certain pleasure in it. The surprise of seeing the mountain appear or not, according to the whims of the weather, gives it an aura of mystery.